Though I have been to New Mexico many times, visiting the southern part of the state, walking in the steps of Billy the Kid, seeing where Smokey Bear was rescued, gazing at art on Canyon Road in Santa Fe and skiing at Taos, I never stopped in Albuquerque until recently. It was always just an airport for the rest of New Mexico. Now I love the city and try to spend time here on every visit to New Mexico.
Since, it’s coming up to Valentine’s Day, a lover’s point of view seemed appropriate. Surprisingly, Albuquerque provides plenty for couples to enjoy from wild desert nature and spectacular panoramas to great museums and a restored Rte. 66 experience.
Here are 10 endeavors for couples visiting Albuquerque whether it’s Valentine’s Day or not. Each one provides an unexpected pleasure from a city that manages to blend ancient New Mexico with not-so-old and modern New Mexico. Not only is Albuquerque a vibrant city with its university and businesses, but it is one of the most affordable cities in the country.
1. Clamber through Petroglyph National Monument
At the western edge of the city, Petroglyph National Monument has more than 20,000 ancient Indian symbols chipped, scratched and etched into stone. The easiest to reach is Boca Negra Canyon with more than 200 petroglyphs. Just up the road is Piedras Marcadas Canyon with thousands of these pictures pecked in stone. And, just south of the visitor center is Rinconada Canyon with around 500-700 petroglyphs.
You and your lover will have a nice hike, learn plenty of new things about early settlers in this region and get some spectacular panoramas across the city to the east. All for a small $1-$2 parking fee.
2. Bicycle down the Rio Grande
This isn’t my idea of a great time, but friends swear that they love bicycling with their significant others. Albuquerque is certainly a wonderful place to enjoy two-wheel adventures. The city has created bike paths where cyclists can travel 16 miles without ever having to cross a road.
It’s all free if you have your own bike, or rent one for around $8 an hour. Or, take a walk along the riverside trails.
3. Old Town tour (maybe by pedicab)
While wandering across the Plaza towards San Filipe de Neri church, Mike Whitney shouted out and asked me if I wanted a guided tour of Old Town. I said I wasn’t in the market, but it seemed to be a good idea. Mike offers tours perfect for lovers in his pedicab and he can regale his riders with plenty of colorful history. Contact him by calling (505) 712-1225. He claims to only work when he feels like it and the weather is nice. He asks around $20 for a half-hour tour.
If you aren’t in the mood for a pedicab tour or Mike isn’t in the mood (or is already booked) take a stroll on your own through the heart of old Albuquerque founded in 1706. There are plenty of souvenir shops, jewelers and art galleries plus, The Candy Lady, an old-fashion candy store.
4. Sandia Tram for the dramatic views
Take a ride together on the world’s longest aerial tramway to the top of 10,387-foot-high Sandia Peak. The views west across the city are filled with the city skyline, swirling clouds, volcano cones, dazzling sunsets and, at night, the lights of downtown. At the top, there is a nature center plus, hiking and biking trails (with mountain bike rentals).
The ride costs $17.50. Tel. (505) 856-7325,
5. Cruise Rte 66 for neon glow
Rte. 66 runs through it. One of the best-restored stretches of Rte. 66 runs smack through Albuquerque. Many of the old 30s, 40s and 50s buildings have been restored, new shops have been added and the neon glares and blinks into the night. It really is fun to cruise down Rte. 66, Central Avenue.
I focused on Central Ave., but Rte. 66 has another spur that runs north-south through Barelas in the direction of Santa Fe to the north and loops south to Los Lunas in the south. It wasn’t until 1937 that the route mirrored Central Ave running between Santa Rosa and Albuquerque.
In 1985 Rte. 66 was actually de-certified but it refused to die. Its reputation from the Grapes of Wrath to beebop songs and TV shows kept the mystique alive.
Some of the best stretches of neon are along Central Ave. through downtown where restaurants, hotelss, cafe, motels, theaters, galleries, gas stations and stores proclaim their existence through red, blue, green, yellow and white flashing neon. It is a blast from the past. Plus, on weekends the downtown Central Avenue is closed to traffic and turned into a walking district where visitors can enjoy wandering without dodging cars.
6. Share a shake at Rte 66 Diner
Great fun for a retro romantic fling. Enjoy a real soda fountain malted milk, milkshake, float or ice cream sundae with your sweetie. Make it special and order with two straws or two spoons. The Formica soda fountain serves up whimsical flavors like Pink Cadillac (strawberry ice-cream with Oreo cookies), dreamsickle, chocolate peanut butter, plus more. Of course there are the basics like banana splits, root beer floats and hot-fudge sundae.
On the way out grab a cookie for 50¢ or a giant rice-krispie treat for 75¢. You can’t beat ’em.
1405 Central Avenue, (505) 247-1421, www.66diner.com
7. Champagne tasting at Gruet
Enjoy a tour and tasting at Gruet Winery. Arguably, one of the best sparkling wines created in the United States, this vineyard is run by a family with a long history of growing grapes and making Champagne in France. Since 1984 the Gruet family has been producing acclaimed sparkling wines. The tour and a tasting cost $6 for a sampling of five wines, keep the wine glass.
8400 Pan American Freeway Northeast, (505) 821-0055 or (888) 857-9463, www.gruetwinery.com
8. Buy chocolates at Chocolate Cartel
In Taos, I had a chance to meet the chocolate maker from Chocolate Cartel — Master Chocolatier and Chef de Cuisine Scott J. Van Rixel. After starting his craft in Taos featuring chocolate from Venezuela, they have opened a new store in Albuquerque that my chocolate-loving friends claim is a step beyond anything previously available. Their heart-shaped box is perfect for any partner.
Address: 315 Juan Tabo Blvd. NE Ste. A Tel. (505) 797-1193; www.chocolatecartel.com/
9. Take a balloon ride (watching is nice and far more affordable)
This city is one of the ballooning capitals of the country. The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, in October, sees more than 700 giant hot-air balloons floating above the desert and mountain landscape. Balloon rides can be taken here all year long. Almost a dozen balloonists operate rides in the area. An average balloon ride cost will depend on the number of other passengers in the balloon basket. Expect to pay $125-$175 apiece.
10. Dance at the Mine Shaft in Madrid
About 30 minutes outside of the eastern edge of Albuquerque up the Turquoise Trail is the former ghost town of Madrid. In the middle of town is the Mine Shaft Tavern. This tavern has, reportedly, the longest bar in New Mexico. And hanging over the 40-foot bar are paintings by a local artist with his mantra, “It is better to drink than work,” woven through the paintings.
If you and your honey have a hankerin’ for some dancin’ on Sunday afternoon, this is a great atmospheric place to come. To eat and dance. The green chili cheeseburgers are killer. They have live music most Sunday afternoons and some Fridays and Saturdays. Call 505-473 -0743 for the schedule. www.themineshafttavern.com
Sleeping and eating
The Bottger Mansion provides one of the most convenient locations in Albuquerque, only steps from the historic Old Town Plaza. This B&B is on the National Register of Historic Places and is the only accommodation in the Old Town Historic District. Steve and Kathy Hiatt are wonderful hosts with indepth knowledge about the city and the surrounding area. The breakfast is one of the best to be found in town and each elegant room has been decorated to reflect the unique history of New Mexico and its role in how America developed. Ask about their Valentine’s special that runs through February.
Address: Bottger Mansion, 110 San Felipe, NW Albuquerque, New Mexico 87104; (800) 758-3639 or (505) 243-3639; www.bottger.com.
Since this is a romantic kind of story, a romantic kind of place to lay your head and frolic with a lover is in order. The Downtown Historic Bed and Breakfast is a group of two homes midway between Old Town/downtown and the Nob Hill area. Rooms have been restored to their early-1900 decor, some with stenciled walls, oak furniture and wrought iron beds. The bathrooms are tiled with bowl sink and clawfoot bathtub. Giant oak tables and grand couches fill the common areas. The Spy House is where atomic bomb drawings involved in Rosenberg case were sold to the Soviets.
Address: 207-209 High Street, (505) 842-0223, (888) 342-0223; www.albuquerquebedandbreakfasts.com.
For dinner head to a romantic Italian meal at Scalo right on Rte. 66 a bit east of the University in Nob Hill. This restaurant has been packed with locals for more than 23 years. It is often mentioned as “the place” to go in town for that romantic dinner.
The owner, Steve Paternoster, has managed to bring authentic Italian flavors to Albuquerque. The menu ranges from antipasto and salad to wood-fired pizzas, fresh pasta and full Italian entrees such as veal scallopini, sea bass, mussels and grilled pork.
Address: 3500 Central SE, (505) 255-8781, www.scalonobhill.com
In search of the perfect Huevos Ranchero for breakfast.
I am a breakfast lover. Here in Albuquerque one of the mainstays is Huevos Ranchero and another is the breakfast burrito. Here are my picks for the best breakfast joints on Rte. 66. If you are on the western end of town, head to Garcia’s at 1736 Central SW. Across from the University of New Mexico is a breakfast institution, The Frontier Restaurant, at 2400 Central SE. Further east on Rte.66 you’ll find Mannies Restaurant at 2900 Central Ave. SE, in Nob Hill.
A great guidebook for New Mexico
I used Moon Handbooks New Mexico by Zora O’Neill (Avalon Travel; $17.95) during my travels in the state. This is a guidebook that reflects the personality and humor of the author. The maps were well-done and helpful and Zora finds fascinating nooks and crannies in every corner of this enchanting state from Earthships and pueblos to green chili burgers and ’50s malts. Every time I opened the guide, I found something new. All in all a wonderful guidebook. Look for the new edition coming out this spring.
Photos by Charlie Leocha except Gruet bottles, chocolates, balloon, Sandia Tram by those organizations.
Charlie Leocha is the President of Travelers United. He has been working in Washington, DC, for the past 14 years with Congress, the Department of Transportation, and industry stakeholders on travel issues. He was the first consumer representative to the Advisory Committee for Aviation Consumer Protections appointed by the Secretary of Transportation from 2012 through 2018.
