Just after the wall between East Germany and West Germany was opened, I had the opportunity to be one of the first American travel writers to tour through the former German Democratic Republic and to the center of the Reformation that had been closed to American tourists for decades.
The travel was fascinating because no one really knew what to expect. There were no hotels to speak of, roads were potholed, gas stations were few and far between and the East Germans were only beginning to come to grips with their new reality — a reality that was not as full as work and western luxury that they expected.
Part of that trip took me through Wittenberg where Luther nailed his 95 Theses to the church door, and to the Wartburg Castle in Eisenach where Luther translated the bible into the vernacular. This part of Germany is still the heart of Europe’s religious reformation.
The rest of this post, focused on the land of Luther at Christmastime, is by Paul Wade a London-based travel writer, specializing in Germany. It was written for the the local German tourism offices of Saxony-Anhalt and Thuringia promoting the Lutherdecade that will end in 2017, the 500th anniversary of the Reformation.
Stroll across the Alter Markt, a small square in Magdeburg, and you are stepping back in time. Against the backdrop of the Renaissance town hall, the old heart of the city is at its most charming before Christmas, when market stalls cover the cobbled streets. But, Magdeburg offers more than historic atmosphere.
Here, in the capital of Saxony-Anhalt, you are walking in the footsteps of Martin Luther. You can hear choirs singing carols that Luther wrote; you can smell Thüringer Rostbratwurst, the sausage Luther loved, cooking on the grill; and you can watch Baumkuchen being made over an open flame. A treat since Luther’s time, this cake is rich with eggs, butter, sugar, and flour. Martin Luther spent most of his life in the neighboring German states of Saxony-Anhalt and Thuringia.
About halfway between Berlin and Frankfurt, this region is celebrating the Luther Decade, the 10-year build-up to 2017 and the 500th anniversary of the Reformation.
There are so many connections to Luther. Like his fellow countrymen then and now, he loved music: “Next to the word of God, the noble art of music is the greatest treasure in the world. It controls our hearts, minds and spirits.” A talented lute player, with a tenor voice, he wrote easy-to-understand hymns. Indeed, English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge reckoned that: “Luther did as much for the Reformation by his hymns as by his translation of the Bible.” Luther really enjoyed Christmas; at this time of year, two of his best-loved works are sung around the world. In 1524, he wrote “Gelobet seist du, Jesu Christ”… All praise to Thee, eternal God, Who clothed in garb of flesh and blood…In 1531, Luther composed “Vom Himmel hoch, da komm ich her”, a carol for his 5-year-old son Hans. Translated into English by Catherine Winkworth in 1855, this is the familiar choral work From Heaven above to earth I come, To bear good news to every home.
Ninety minutes southeast of Magdeburg is Wittenberg, known as Lutherstadt, or Luther’s Town. In the market square, the world-famous statue of Luther looks out at the Marienskirche (St. Mary’s Church), the “Mother Church of the Reformation,” where Luther preached. Inside is the famous winged altar, painted by Lucas Cranach the Elder. Outside is the pretty Christmas market, with its tempting smells of roasted almonds and mulled wine.
Two hours south of Magdeburg is Erfurt, the capital of Thuringia. Here, too, Christmas market stalls fill squares, such as the medieval Wenigermarkt. Like Luther, you can hear the massive Gloriosa, the world’s largest medieval bell, still ringing out after 500 years. As you wander, you can taste Schittchen, the local version of Stollen, a delicious fruit bread. And in the evenings, you can hear choirs singing carols that Luther himself wrote. Another very special Christmas market is held at Wartburg Castle in Eisenach. Here, Luther changed history by translating the New Testament from Greek into German, the everyday language of the people. On Advent weekends, it’s like stepping back in time; the castle, the food, the music and the crafts are magical.
Christmas is everywhere. The first glass Christmas tree decorations were created in Lauscha, in Thuringia in the 19th century. And, in 1885, when F. W. Woolworth, the five-and-dime store pioneer, saw them on a visit, he imported the ornaments to the USA. The heritage continues in Germany’s glassblowing capital, where you can watch artisans creating works of art at Lauscha’s Glass Craft Museum.
There is more romance in the enchanting Harz Mountains, the backdrop to fairytales, such as Cinderella, the Sleeping Beauty and Rapunzel. In the Saxony-Anhalt part of these thickly-forested mountains is Derenburg. Here at Harzkristall, they also make elegant, hand-blown glass ornaments that are exported all over the world, transforming ordinary pine trees into shimmering Christmas trees.
Luther went to boarding school in Magdeburg, so he would have worshipped in the impressive Cathedral of St. Maurice and St. Catherine; he would have admired the 770-year-old equestrian statue of the Magdeburg Horseman; and he would have walked along the banks of the River Elbe, which brought wealth to the city. But, there is more. In this part of Germany, you really can taste the past. After all, Garley, the world’s oldest beer brand, has been brewed in nearby Gardelegen since 1314. Order a Krug (mug) and toast Martin Luther, the man who loved Christmas…and enjoyed his beer.
Photos: Wartburg from German Tourism; Wittenberg Church door from Abbas Mahmood, Wikimedia Commons.
Charlie Leocha is the President of Travelers United. He has been working in Washington, DC, for the past 14 years with Congress, the Department of Transportation, and industry stakeholders on travel issues. He was the first consumer representative to the Advisory Committee for Aviation Consumer Protections appointed by the Secretary of Transportation from 2012 through 2018.
