A rooster struts past a line of colorful storefronts where vendors hack pieces of sugar cane which passers-by purchase and chew to extract the sweet juice.
Not far away, very different kinds of foods tempt other hungry shoppers. Pigs’ feet and papaya, coconuts and mud-thick coffee are among taste treats — some familiar to many people, others less so — that stock grocery shelves and tiny carryout eateries.
Welcome to Miami and Miami Beach, where broad swatches of white sand and glittering night life are main attractions that draw most visitors to that popular destination. But behind the glimmer of sun and the glitz of top-notch entertainment lies a collection of diverse neighborhoods that offers an enticing mosaic of cultures, lifestyles and architecture.
South Beach, the two-square mile enclave on the southern tip of Miami Beach, has been likened to an American Riviera, and with good reason. No matter what the time of day or night, the scene pulsates with life, and surprises. During a recent visit, I spotted a middle-aged couple holding hands, two policemen, and a very large woman leading a very small white dog — all of whom were coasting by on roller blades, except the dog.
Restaurants and night clubs serve up food, fun and in some cases ear-splitting music until early in the morning. If you think you’ve spotted the likes of Brooke Shields, Michael Caine or other Hollywood celebrities enjoying the trendy scene,
you’re probably right.
Stretch limousines, Mercedes and other top-of-the-line automobiles slowly prowl the streets. Many of their occupants are much more interested in being seen than in observing what’s taking place on the sidewalks outside.
The whimsical Walt Disney World aura of Art Deco architecture which adorns the neighborhood adds to the setting. Dramatic styles of building design and decoration from the 1920s to the 1940s have equally dramatic names like Zig Zag and Depression Moderne. Adding to the picture is a confetti-like mixture of colors which vies with electrifying neon lights to overwhelm the eye.
This is the largest collection of Art Deco-style buildings in the world. Given that claim, it’s no surprise that more than 800 of them are listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places.
The scene is very different but no less enticing in Miami’s Little Haiti neighborhood. During the late 1970s and early 1980s, more than 30,000 Haitians fled their poverty stricken country and arrived in the city. Most of them settled in a 3.5 square mile area north of downtown, transforming that community with their unique culture.
Today, women in multi-colored flowing dresses continue to gather at markets to buy coconuts, plantains, salt pork and other favorite foods, as the first arrivals did. Shops sell “kremas mapou,” a tasty blend of milk, egg yolk, sugar cane and light alcohol, along with flaky dough pockets brimming with meat, fish and flavor.
Little “botanicas” offer medicinal herbs, incense and other supplies for use in voodoo ceremonies. Tiny dolls and pins also are available, for casting spells.
Tempting odors of food, both unfamiliar and delicious, waft from restaurants. A blend of English, French and Creole is the everyday language of many neighborhood residents.
Cigars and dominoes predominate in another enclave known as Little Havana. That neighborhood is home to numerous refugees who left Cuba beginning in the 1960s. They proudly cling to their traditions and dream of the day when their homeland will be free of the influence of the Castros.
Signs are both “en espanol” and in English. Shops sell “fotos de Cuba,” embroidered “guayabera” shirts and memorabilia. The aroma of high-octane “cafe Cubano” draws people into little bakeries and snack shops.
Visitors to the streets near Calle Ocho (8th Street) may stop by “tabacaleras” to watch experts from the old country, and their younger counterparts, hand roll cigars. They also may check out markets where what some may consider unusual parts of pigs and other animals are sold, along with more recognizable tropical fruits and vegetables.
At Maximo Gomez Park, known locally as “Domino Park,” gray-haired men puffing on cigars loudly slap tiles onto tables in good-natured competition. The contest of which player makes the loudest noise with his dominoes seems to be at least as important as who actually wins the game.
Descendants of refugees from elsewhere in the Caribbean have given color and culture to an area called Coconut Grove. Bahamians were among the first settlers in that neighborhood during the late 19th century, and Bahamian-style wooden homes continue to serve as reminders of those early residents.
They were followed by writers, artists and other intellectuals, and later by hippies and counter-culture types. In recent years, gentrification has changed the face of the neighborhood, but the dwindling number of old-time “Grovites” who remain still hang out at gathering places that are favorite haunts remaining from former bohemian days.
The Coral Gables neighborhood is located adjacent to Little Havana, but is far apart in terms of atmosphere. Built during the 1920s by a developer named George Merrick, it was one of the first fully planned communities in the country.
Merrick envisioned a kind of American Venice, interlaced with canals lined by gracious Mediterranean-style homes, splashing fountains and ornate gateways. Broad boulevards and lush landscaping complete the picture. Adding a touch of whimsy are little pockets of “international villages” with homes in French, Norman, Dutch, Chinese and other architectural modes.
The feeling of fantasy evoked at Coral Gables stands in stark contrast to the earthy way of life in Little Haiti and Little Havana. This intriguing variety presents enticing alternatives beyond the sun and sand vacation attractions that draw the majority of visitors to Miami and its beaches.
After gallivanting throughout the United States and to more than 75 other countries around the world, and writing about what he sees, does and learns, Victor Block retains the travel bug. He firmly believes that travel is the best possible education, and claims he still has a lot to learn. He loves to explore new destinations and cultures, and his stories about them have won a number of writing awards.
