I was in Saigon just twelve months ago and now I’m back. Based on my visit , you’d think my previous trip had been a decade before. My, how a city changes when the powers in charge decide to allow people the freedom to be capitalists. Granted, Vietnam may have a Communist government but the population is definitely out to make money.
While I was living the life of luxury aboard a Seabourn Cruise, I couldn’t wait to jump ship and spend some time on land. We were docked within ten minutes of the center of town and if you negotiated the fare before hopping into the taxi, you could be in the center of town within a matter of minutes and for less than two U.S. dollars.
People keep asking why Asia is my destination of choice—after Paris. It’s a long trip no matter whether I’m flying from the U.S. or from Europe. As many time as I’ve visited the region, it becomes increasing evident I’ve only scratched the surface. Perhaps I inherited my love of the orient from my great-grandfather who lived in Shanghai and started the China Export Company.
All places change. But, Asia is changing at a full gallop. If you blink, there will be a new building. Saigon was a real shocker. A new building is scheduled to open in a couple of months with a heliport. It will be 68-stories high and will house offices, luxury apartments and a hotel. So much for low-rise and low-income.
Yes, there are still old-time markets where people can haggle with vendors. But don’t expect to walk away with something for pennies unless it’s worth pennies. When Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci open stores in a city, that’s an indication Vietnam has become consumer and brand conscious, and they are buying. Passengers on the ship were transported in Mercedes vans on excursions and there’s a newly opened Mercedes dealership.
I wanted to see “old” Saigon that’s disappearing with each visit. I hired a scooter driver (yes, I was wearing a helmet) and we went into neighborhoods that were essentially alleys. Unfortunately, the chauffeur and I had a communication problem and he didn’t understand my asking him to stop so I could take photos. Perhaps it was healthier since the pollution in Saigon is terrible and I wished I’d bought a facemask.
We sped by the Basilica of Notre Dame, the railway station, the Opera House, the post office and other remnants of architecture constructed by the French. Don’t expect to speak French should you visit Saigon. Children are now taught minimal English unless they’re in tourist-or business-related industries.
We took a day trip on the Mekong Delta. That’s where you see old Vietnam. There’s something so beautiful and serene about the area that it touched my soul. People are by no means living anything other than hard and basic lives. But, they’re renowned for being the friendliest in the country and few would opt to move to a city.
I can never spend enough time in Vietnam but I wonder whether or not I’m the only person who suffers from acute culture shock after every visit. Is there such a think as too much progress too fast? I guess only time will tell. For me, the change in Saigon, now Ho Chi Minh City, from one year to the next was positively jarring.
I’d like to hear your thoughts about what might be too much change.
Karen Fawcett is president of Bonjour Paris.
Karen Fawcett loves to travel anywhere. Karen was a founder & president BonjourParis.com while living in Paris for more than 25 years. She has traveled across Europe and the rest of the world. She is now based in Washington, DC.
