The Trans-Siberian Railway for beginners: the sequel

It’s been a while since I’ve updated Tripso readers about my trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway for March of 2009, and I’ve done a lot more research and feel a bit more comfortable about taking this trip by myself.

Step Eight: Work backwards from railway timetables.
Using the Seat 61’s timetable guide and the official CIS railway timetable, I was able to break the trip down into three legs.

Leg One: Train #002 — Russia: from Moscow to Irkutsk
Leg Two: Train #264 — Mongolia: from Irkutsk to Ulanbataar
Leg Three: Train #004 — China: from Ulanbataar, Mongolia to Beijing

After mapping out the timetable and figuring out which trains operate on what day, I decided on planning a two day stop in Irkutsk and three days in Ulanbataar, with four days in Moscow at the beginning, and five days in Beijing at the end. That should be sufficient.

Step Nine: Rent Transsiberian to get in the mood.
It might not seem to be the brightest idea to rent a mystery-suspense movie about a trip that seems frightening, but why not? Transsiberian stars Woody Harrelson, the lovely Emily Mortimer and Ben Kingsley. It provides a good feel for what to expect along the way, with the seemingly cramped four-person accommodations, the vast expanse of Siberia and the dramatic landscape.

Step Ten: Book the rail tickets.
There are multiple schools of thought on the best way to get a rail ticket. Some more adventurous travelers think nothing of buying the ticket while they’re in Moscow, and there are some like me who want to have it organized and paid before before departure. Though, possibly, a bit more expensive, the peace of mind is worth it.

I websurfed to WayToRussia.net to purchase my ticket through Intergroup. It seemed to be the most reasonable in terms of surcharge and reviews, but I’ll find that out when I get to Moscow (and you can have a laugh at my expense if there are massive issues).

Step Eleven: Find hotels.
Since I’m 3+ months away from departure, I booked my reservations in Moscow and Irkutsk, and am researching places to stay in Ulanbataar. Accommodations in Moscow are expensive. I opted to stay at a hostel (when the Sheraton is $600 a night, I’ll go cheap) called the Godzilla Hostel. I admit, I picked it for the name alone.

In Irkutsk, I found a highly recommended hostel/guest house called Baikaler Hostel that fits my budget. Plus, I figure I’ll need help learning about what else to do in Irkutsk besides taking a trip to Lake Baikal and dog sledding.

Step Twelve: Get visas.
Russian and Chinese visas are required for this trip. Mongolia doesn’t require a visa for US citizens (Thanks Mongolia!). Visas are costly. The Chinese visa costs $130 and the Russian Visa is $131. However, Russian visas require letters of invitation from a travel agency or a hotel registered with the Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It’s easy to get a visa invitation online, but it costs an additional $30. Add in passport photos and mailing fees and you’re easily looking at $300 and more. Yikes.

Step Thirteen: Immunizations and other travel medications.
Visit a travel medical clinic at least two months before departure. Most travelers can’t remember what childhood immunizations they received nor could can their family. Get up to date. Hepatitis A and B immunizations are highly recommended anyway and that add a few hundred dollars to your budget. My 3 shot treatment for Hepatitis A and B (Twinrix) and cost $450 over 6 months (that’s not counting everything else I received).

The CDC’s Travelers’ Health website is invaluable for figuring out current health risks and recommended immunizations. It never hurts to get medicine for travelers’ diarrhea and something like Ambien to help you sleep.

Step Fourteen: Go clothes shopping.
The mean temperature for Moscow, Irkutsk and Ulanbataar for March hovers around 23 degrees Fahrenheit with lows dipping to 5 degrees. Make sure winter clothing will be up to the task. Fortunately, living in Chicago has hardened me to somewhat cold winters and I have a nice investment in parkas and fleece, but I still see myself spending more.

In an effort to get myself prepared more, I made my own little Google Maps mashup of the trip, complete with minor stops along the railway. It helps me visualize where I’m headed and what to expect along the way.

Obsessive? Probably — but planning it out helps me understand what to expect so I can spend less time panicking, and more time enjoying what should be an amazing trip.

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